Installing a New Shower Unit
An effective shower setup requires cautious planning and a lot of work. In most cases, you will require to do 3 types of tasks: framing walls, installing the plumbing, and finishing walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you should choose the type of shower that you want to install. It is essential to determine whether the selected shower is capable of managing particular systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower units nowadays are developed to be flexible to various water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).
It is also essential to take into account the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and exceptionally simple to set up. Nevertheless, although the hose pipe connection is easy, it is easily removed. In addition, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The pipe and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely low-cost choice and no extra plumbing is included. However, the bath/shower mixers also struggle with inconvenient temperature control options. unblock kitchen drain
Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall system and the cold and hot water materials are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a range of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the formerly pointed out mixers. They likewise require extra pipes of hot and cold supply of water pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type belong of the wall unit and the hot and cold water materials are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from ending up being too hot. Among the most significant benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature level control. However, it is the most costly of the various mixer choices.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system consisting of a powerful electric pump that is capable of changing both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water warmed directly by the shower or where the water is supplied by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is necessary to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system permits the temperature and pressure to be adjusted through a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are much better as they stay untouched by other taps somewhere else in usage within the household. A significant disadvantage of electric showers is that the control knob only enables the alternative of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is bothersome in the winter season when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. Nevertheless, this problem is taken on in some designs which are offered with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you want to install, the shower head need to either be fitted in order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.
Use the direction guide offered with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipelines, they should be offered a waterproof covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be supplying the water (This might require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water system and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some may require tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. As soon as these connections have been made (there need to be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a higher height (sometimes just 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden assistance below it-- potentially made up of struts and blockboards. If you pick this alternative, the main and distribution pipelines will also need to be raised to fulfill the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding maintain maximum pressure and reduce heat loss. In addition, by minimising the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can reduce the resistance in the flow of the water supply. You can attain this by bending the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or disregarding local code restrictions.
# Using pipelines that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipe substance at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.
# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting cloggeed drain vic supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall remains in place.
# Not properly lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leakage.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, constantly run the outside tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can trigger issues in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.